Following in their footsteps in North Devon – The Salt Path

Step into the Inspiring Footsteps of Raynor and Moth Winn on the North Devon leg of their life changing journey along the South west coast path...

 

"The Salt Path" movie poster: Gillian Anderson & Jason Isaacs.

A Coastal Journey that stays with you…

With the highly anticipated film release of The Salt Path on Friday 30th May, all eyes are turning to the UK’s longest National Trail: the South West Coast Path.

And guess what – Your perfect coastal escape, Lynmouth Holiday Retreat, is nestled right in the heart of this iconic landscape!

Sitting just above Lynton and Lynmouth where Raynor Winn and her husband Moth walked, camped, battled, healed, and found hope after losing everything.

It’s also where their incredibly moving cinematic story comes to life, hugging the cliff-lined edges of North Devon’s wildest and most breathtaking scenery. Follow us as we follow in the footsteps of the salt path along the North Devon coastline…

Time to wear in your walking boots, pick up a local map, and get ready to step directly into the pages of a memoir that has touched millions.

Whether you’re deeply inspired by Raynor and Moth’s incredible journey, or simply yearning to soak up the phenomenal views they loved, we’ve got the ultimate guide for you to begin very own unforgettable taste of the Salt Path – following their North Devon leg of their journey from Lynton to Combe Martin, where Raynor faces adversity and comes to terms with her illusions of life…

Image credit: Steve Tanner

Couple resting on hillside, backpacks nearby.
North Devon coastal cliffs and ocean view.

Follow in the Footsteps: Lynmouth to Combe Martin Route (13.7 miles)

Imagine starting your day waking up at Lynmouth Holiday Retreat, perched majestically above the bay with sweeping, panoramic views of Exmoor and the North Devon coast.

Begin your walk by descending into the charming village of Lynmouth, then choose your ascent: either bravely climb the zig-zagging cliff path or indulge in a ride on the historic funicular cliff railway up to Lynton, affectionately known as “Little Switzerland” for its dramatic, captivating terrain.

This, my friends, is where the very essence of The Salt Path magic truly comes alive…

From Lynton, stride west along the coast path towards the iconic Castle Rock and delve into the extraordinary, otherworldly Valley of Rocks.

You’ll wander past rugged tors, almost certainly spot the famous wild goats (they’re quite the characters!), and feel an undeniable connection to the very pages of Raynor’s story.

This surreal stretch isn’t just a highlight; it’s the stunning backdrop for The Salt Path’s film poster – and trust us, it’s every bit as magical in real life as Raynor so beautifully described in the book…

Image credit: Steve Tanner

Four people sitting outdoors in North Devon, smiling at the camera, with a rocky hill in the background.
Goats grazing in North Devon field, near a house and rocky hill.

“The sea broke against the base of the cliffs leading up to Castle Rock. We watched in silence. Rhythmically, repeatedly, white against black, white against black, white against black.

A group of wild goats, disguised by the scrub and rock, leapt across the path close by, their long hair blown by the wind as they disappeared below…”

© Raynor Winn, The Salt Path, 2018

Continue your journey toward Lee Abbey, a serene religious retreat nestled peacefully in the cliffs. If the season is right, make sure to stop for a refreshing tea at the delightful Lee Abbey Tea Cottage before taking the road that dips down into tranquil Lee Bay.

While it’s a slight detour from the official path, this hidden gem is absolutely worth it – quiet, wonderfully rocky, and wonderfully tranquil

Beyond Lee Bay, the trail transforms, growing more remote and wonderfully challenging. You’ll traverse woodland-fringed paths of enchanting Woody Bay and cross over the mighty Hollow Brook, one of Britain’s tallest waterfalls… a sight to behold!

Rocky cove in North Devon, England, viewed from a clifftop.
North Devon coastal landscape: green hills meet calm sea.

Now it’s about to get hilly! Ascend to the breathtaking Highveer Point before descending steeply into the wooded valley of Heddon’s Mouth – a perfect, well-deserved halfway rest spot.

Climbing out of the idyllic Heddon Valley, make your way across Trentishoe Down, where the cliffs dramatically open up, and the path rolls onward toward the truly mighty Great Hangman, England’s highest sea cliff, towering at an impressive 1,043ft!

The climb is undoubtedly punishing, but the rewards are soul-stirring, expansive views that will stay with you long after you’ve caught your breath.

 

Descend to Little Hangman, with the welcoming finish line now firmly in sight.

The final descent leads you to the charming seaside village of Combe Martin, famous for its wonderfully long high street, inviting rock pools, sandy coves, and, most importantly, welcoming pubs like the historic Pack O’ Cards, where you can raise a well-deserved glass to toast your incredible journey!

To get back to Lynmouth – use one of our local friendly taxi service  Lyn Valley taxisRiverside Taxis (Lynton & Exmoor), Exmoor Transfers or Bossington Taxis.

North Devon coastal scene: rocky beach, green hills, boat at low tide.
Woman kneeling on street, two dogs nearby, people walking in background; North Devon scene.

“We stood outside a grocery shop on the corner of the street as I counted the coins in my hand, trying to decide what to spend. At the same moment, a woman in a bright yellow and blue sailing coat walked around the corner with a large, white, angry-looking dog. I shouldn’t have stood there, between the shop door and a rail where a black Labrador was tied, waiting for its owner. 

The huge white dog clearly hated other dogs. He lunged for the Labrador, who had been quietly dozing, contemplating the can of dog food that was on its way out of the shop. As he leapt forwards he grazed past the rucksack on my back, sending me spinning into the wall. The coins leapt out of my hand and disappeared down the hill. I threw myself to the ground as a pound coin spun off the pavement, almost catching it as it slipped from my fingers into the drainage grill. Moth followed a two-pound coin as it rolled away, weaving between holidaymakers walking up the hill. From my viewpoint on the tarmac I could see him trying to stoop to catch it, just as a small boy snatched it up with glee.

‘I’ve caught money, I’ve caught money.’ No, no, we need that. ‘Well done, mate, ice cream van’s at the top of the hill.’ ‘Oh, Moth, I’d have liked an ice cream.’ The woman with the white dog prodded me with her foot. I was still lying on the pavement with my hand in the gutter.‘What’s the matter with you, are you drunk?’ I was momentarily stunned by her assumption. ‘I’m fine, it’s your dog that’s the problem.’ ‘There’s nothing wrong with my dog. You tramps should learn how to control yourselves. Rolling around in the street – it’s disgusting.’

I took my hand out of the gutter and stood up as the black Labrador uncurled itself from the end of a lead stretched to its limit. A tramp. A homeless tramp. A few weeks earlier I’d owned my own home, my own business, a flock of sheep, a garden, land, an Aga, washing machines, a lawn mower; I had responsibilities, respect, pride. The illusions of life had rolled away as quickly as the pound coins.”

– © Raynor Winn, The Salt Path, 2018 – Arriving into Combe Martin.  

Stay, Eat & Do: Your Perfect North Devon Adventure Awaits!


Beyond the epic coastal walks, the Lynmouth and Lynton area, with Lynmouth Holiday Retreat as your ideal base, bursts with charm, delicious eats, and exciting activities. 

Explore Lynton and Lynmouth via the historic Cliff Railway, or venture on peaceful walking trails to Watersmeet and the dramatic Valley of Rocks. 

Fuel your adventures with delicious meals at Nartnapa Thai, The Greenhouse, or Charlie Fridays, then unwind with a refreshing drink at The Rising Sun, The Ancient Mariner, or The Blue Ball Inn. It’s all here, waiting for your perfect North Devon escape!

Pint of beer held up outside a pub in North Devon.
Couple backpacking on a beach and resting by the water.

Salt Path Filming Locations in North Devon!

The new film adaptation beautifully showcases some of North Devon’s most iconic coastal spots, bringing Raynor and Moth’s journey vividly to life:

Hartland Quay – Witness wave-lashed cliffs and raw, untamed coastal drama that will take your breath away.

Lynmouth & Lynton – Not just the start of their journey, but the very emotional epicentre of their powerful story.

Valley of Rocks – Prepare for surreal landscapes, those delightful roaming goats, and the instantly recognisable film poster’s unforgettable backdrop.

Clovelly – Step back in time with charming cobbled streets, a historic harbour, and timeless, captivating charm.

Image Credit: Steve Tanner.


Top tips for Walking the South West Coast Path

Plan Ahead, Always! Research the section you plan to tackle before you go. This route is incredibly scenic, but it can be strenuous, so be prepared!

Wear Proper Boots! This is non-negotiable! Make sure they fit well. Too small, and you’ll be walking without a toenail by the end (trust Moth and Raynor on this if not us!).

Pack Light but Smart! Essential items include water, energy-boosting snacks, adaptable layers, plasters (just in case!)

Leave No Trace! Respect the trail, always take your litter home.

Connect to the Trail! This path is so much more than just a route. It’s healing. It’s perspective. It’s freedom. Embrace it!

Two women at a wooden gate overlooking the sea.
North Devon campsite with campervans and cabins.


Why Lynmouth Holiday Retreat is the perfect base!

On the South West Coast Path: Walk straight from your pitch and onto the adventure!

Pet-friendly: Your furry companions are welcome, with a convenient dog wash station and a dedicated dog walking meadow.

Spectacular Views: Wake up to incredible sea and valley views – perfect for those serene morning coffee moments.

Onsite Delights: Enjoy fresh pastries, local produce, food trucks and friendly service at our convenient onsite shop.

Peaceful Haven: A tranquil, welcoming base after a long, rewarding day of hiking.

New Luxury Options: Indulge in our brand-new Safari Tents, complete with private hot tubs for ultimate relaxation!

VIEW ALL ACCOMMODATION HERE >

Start Your Own Salt Path Story…

The South West Coast Path is more than just a walking trail; it’s a vibrant ribbon woven with stories of resilience, stunning beauty, and wild, untamed places. Let Raynor and Moth’s incredible journey inspire your own adventure – and let Lynmouth Holiday Retreat be your comfortable, welcoming trail base to begin, or simply rest, your own remarkable story.

Ready to walk the Salt Path and create unforgettable memories? 

Book your stay at Lynmouth Holiday Retreat today here and begin your own inspiring story: 

 

Couple resting on hillside, backpacks nearby.

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