Winter walks on Exmoor: 5 Ways to enjoy the National Park this Winter
Crisp air, empty paths and a sky full of stars by teatime. Exmoor in winter is a quieter, wilder place, and that’s exactly its charm.
The summer crowds have gone home, the rivers are running full, and the bracken has turned to rust across the hills. It’s the perfect season for a good walk, a spot of wildlife watching and a warm pub at the end of it.
We know this corner of North Devon well – our Lynmouth Holiday Retreat sits right inside the National Park. Here are five of our favourite ways to spend a winter’s day on Exmoor, from gentle coastal strolls to stargazing under Europe’s first International Dark Sky Reserve.
Valley of Rocks: an easy coastal walk with wild goats for company
If you only do one winter walk on Exmoor, make it this one. The South West Coast Path from Lynton to the Valley of Rocks is a 2.9-mile loop, rated easy, and much of it is surfaced with tarmac – a real bonus when the rest of the moor is soft underfoot.
The path runs along North Walk, high above the Bristol Channel, before the valley opens up in front of you. Castle Rock, Rugged Jack and the Devil’s Cheese Ring rise on either side, and on a clear winter morning the light on those crags is something special.
What you might spot: the valley’s herd of feral goats, often perched on ledges that look impossible. The current herd was brought here in 1976 from the Cheviot Hills, and it is kept at around 25 animals. Please keep dogs on a lead and close the gates behind you – they’re there to stop the goats wandering into town.
Watersmeet: a sheltered woodland walk
When the coast is wild and blustery, head inland to Watersmeet, where the East Lyn River and Hoar Oak Water join in a deep, wooded gorge. The trees take the edge off the weather, and after winter rain the rivers are at their loudest and most dramatic.
The National Trust’s Watersmeet to Ash Bridge circular walk is 2.2 miles and rated moderate. It starts at the Watersmeet car park (EX35 6NT), a few minutes’ drive from Lynmouth Holiday Retreat, and follows a steep zig-zag path down to the waterfalls beside Watersmeet House, a fishing lodge built in 1832.
What you might spot: the National Trust suggests looking out for otters in the river and herons on low branches over the water. Bare winter branches make it easier to see birds moving through the woods, and you may catch a dipper bobbing on a midstream rock.
Dunkery Beacon: big skies and wild ponies on the high moor
For a proper sense of space, climb to the top of Exmoor. At 519 metres, Dunkery Beacon is the highest point on the moor and in Somerset. On a clear, cold day the view stretches across the Bristol Channel, and it’s hard to beat.
The shortest route follows a stony track that climbs gently from the roadside car park at Dunkery Gate. For something longer, start from Webber’s Post and loop back through the woods. Allow around 45 minutes to drive from Lynmouth Holiday Retreat, as the moorland lanes are narrow and winding.
Good to know: the summit is exposed, and the weather can turn quickly in winter. Pick a calm, clear day, wrap up warm and keep dogs close, as ponies, sheep and deer roam freely. Drive slowly on the moor roads too – the ponies often stand right on the tarmac.
Stargazing: Exmoor’s winter nights are made for looking up
Short days have one big upside on Exmoor: the stars come out early. In 2011, Exmoor was designated Europe’s first International Dark Sky Reserve, and long, clear winter evenings are one of the best times to see why.
You don’t need any kit to get started. Let your eyes adjust for 20 minutes or so, away from car headlights and phone screens, and the sky fills in. On a clear, moonless night you may see the Milky Way with the naked eye.
Where to go: County Gate, on the A39 between Lynmouth and Porlock, is a well-known stargazing spot with parking and wide views, about 15 minutes’ drive from Lynmouth Holiday Retreat. Brendon Two Gates and Webber’s Post are also popular choices. Pick a moonless night and check the forecast for clear skies.
Warming up: fireside pubs and a wander round Lynmouth
A good winter walk deserves a good finish. Exmoor’s old inns were built for days like these, with low beams, real fires and a warm welcome for muddy boots and muddy dogs.
Lynmouth itself is lovely out of season. Wander along the harbour, watch the river meet the sea, and look up at the cliffs towering over the village. Note that the Lynton & Lynmouth Cliff Railway closes for annual maintenance in winter, after its last day of 2026 on 6th November. If you’re visiting in winter, the steep path between the two villages is a good leg stretcher instead, and the railway gives you a reason to come back in spring.
Tips for walking on Exmoor in winter
A little planning goes a long way on the moor in winter. Here’s what we’d pack and check before heading out.
- Start early. Around the shortest day, the sun rises at about 8.15am and sets just after 4pm on the Exmoor coast. Aim to be back at the car well before dusk.
- Check the forecast and the tides. Conditions change quickly on high ground and along the cliffs. Choose sheltered valley walks like Watersmeet on wild days.
- Dress in layers. A waterproof jacket, hat, gloves and boots with good grip will keep you comfortable on muddy, slippery paths.
- Carry a map. Phone signal is patchy on Exmoor, so take an OS Explorer OL9 map or download your route before you set off.
- Keep dogs close. Ponies, sheep, goats and deer roam freely, so use a lead around livestock and on cliff paths with steep, unfenced drops.
- Pack a flask. Many cafes keep shorter hours or close for the winter, so bring your own warm drink and snacks.
Plan your 2027 Lynmouth stay
Lynmouth Holiday Retreat is resting for the winter, but we’re already looking forward to welcoming you back in 2027.
Tucked inside Exmoor National Park at Barbrook, with views over Lynmouth Bay, the park puts every walk in this guide on your doorstep. The South West Coast Path is right on hand, Watersmeet is a few minutes down the road, and on clear nights the stars do the rest.
Choose from sea-view camping pitches, glamping pods, safari tents with private hot tubs, Stargazer geo domes and hot tub lodges.
Booking early gives you the widest choice of dates and accommodation for spring and summer.
Check out are earlybird offers on our website!
Frequently Asked Questions
Is Exmoor worth visiting in the Winter?
Yes. The paths are quieter, the rivers are full and the stars come out early. Winter is a lovely time for slower, simpler days outdoors.
What is the easiest walk that you’d recommend in Lynton & Lynmouth?
The Coast Path from Lynton to the Valley of Rocks is a 2.9-mile loop rated easy, and much of it is surfaced with tarmac.
Are there any steep hills to be aware of in Lynton and Lynmouth?
Yes, the area features some steep hills, especially the climb from Lynmouth up to Lynton, which is why the Lynton & Lynmouth Cliff Railway is a popular and scenic way to travel between the two villages without tackling the steep hill on foot.
Is wildlife spotting possible during this trip?
Absolutely! The surrounding area is great for wildlife spotting, including wild goats in the Valley of Rocks, red deer, kingfishers, buzzards, and sometimes Exmoor ponies.
What makes Lynton and Lynmouth a perfect trip destination year round?
Lynton and Lynmouth offer beautiful scenery and unique attractions throughout the year, from spring wildflowers and quieter trails to summer coastal activities and breathtaking views in autumn and winter, making it a perfect trip destination year round.
Camping and Glamping at Lynmouth Holiday Retreat
Looking to experience something different next year or are you a well seasoned camper? Our views are something you don’t want to miss out on. With fantastic on-site facilities, food trucks & pop-ups throughout the summer. Camping with Coast & Country Parks is a sustainable way to holiday and a fantastic way to immerse yourself in the great outdoors of Exmoor National Park.
For those wanting a touch more comfort, heated glamping pods offer a cosy alternative without the hassle of pitching a tent.
Check out all glamping and camping options at Lynmouth Holiday Retreat here.